Do you prefer to end your dinner with a sweet, be it a pudding, ice cream, a slice of pie, or a square of chocolate alongside a cup of coffee? Or are you more a snacks and savouries kind of diner who reaches for cheese, biscuits, and a glass of port? I fall mostly into the latter category, but there is a third option. One that reached the zenith of its popularity during Victorian and Edwardian times. I give you…. THE SAVOURY!
A once-essential flourish at the end of a formal English dinner, a savoury is not quite a starter, not exactly a main course, and certainly not a dessert. Instead, it was a highly spiced morsel saved after the pudding, an eccentric little encore that left guests with a lingering tingle on the tongue and a revived appetite for conversation and booze.
I’m not sure why these fabulously tasty snacks and savouries fell out of favour. Maybe they were too much trouble. Maybe formal dinners have grown shorter. Or maybe they’ve simply shifted position on the menu, have become canapes, hors d’oeuvres, and buffet starters. As long as we don’t lose sight of the salty, fishy, cheesy, hot, or otherwise highly spiced little treats, I don’t really mind, even if serving them at the end of formal dinner might bring mack memories of a grander age.
Traditionally, savouries were quick to prepare and bold in flavour. Recipes were designed to be swift, spicy, and ever so slightly scandalous. Anchovies featured heavily, as did mustard, oysters, cheese, dried fruit, and devilled sauce. Tiny palate cleansers to wake you from the dinner-induced food coma.
You’re bound to be familiar with some of the recipes in this list, but there are plenty more to explore. I’ve just found a marvellous book from the Victorian period - Savouries a la Mode - by Mrs. de Salis and I can’t wait to try out some of her collected treats.
Of course, you’re not restricted to serving them at the end of dinner, either. These snacks and savouries make great additions to a finger buffet, can be served as light starters to a meal or dinner party, or even - the way I most often have them - as a very light lunch or snack between meals.
Feeling intrigued? Here’s a short list to explore (and perhaps revive at your next dinner party):
So, next time you find yourself yearning for something a little unusual at the end of a meal, why not resurrect one of these fabulously tasty snacks and savouries? It’s a quirky slice of English history - and a jolly good bite, too.
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